I have been to Dominick's a handful of times since they reopened under Warner Ebbink and Brandon Boudet (who also own the 101 Coffee Shop) in 2004. The original Dominick's restaurant and bar, established in 1948, was a favored watering hole for Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack. To keep the "old Hollywood" feel they kept the white tiled floors, dark wood accents, and red booths, while adding a marble bar (a full bar, at that), and a beautiful, brick garden patio with a large, working fireplace. Dominick's serves a moderately priced, light Italian fare with nightly specials and a Sunday supper ($15 for three courses).
I found the service to be erratic at best. They seem to have maintained that "Hollywood" feel (a.k.a., exclusivity) in so much that they like to make one wait for a table as long as possible even when it's obvious there are plenty open. I have never seen the place full. And more than once I had to all but beg for the bread (served warm, in a little bakery bag, and quite tasty). The service - when you can get it - is usually quite friendly however, and food comes out at a nice clip.
The food... I found the Rice Balls w/ Mushrooms & Mozzarella, Baked Ricotta w/ Roasted Sweet Peppers & Proscuitto perfectly palatable, if not mind blowing. The Fresh Mozzarella, Roasted Tomatoes, Grilled Mushrooms, and the Fresh Roasted Beets & Fried Goat Cheese were fresh, light, and just right. They have a lovely wine list with some real scores and reasonable prices in addition to their "signature" wine, Dago (Ebbink and Brandon blend their own wines with Palmina Winery), which is priced at an unbeatable $10 per bottle - offered in a red and a white.
The Sunday Supper I experienced was a major disappointment however. The three courses were puny, rushed, and had an entirely assembly line feel to them. I'd go as far as to say my entree, a pacific cod, may have been sitting under a heat lamp for quite some time before it found it's way to my table. Even for the $15 price tag, I would not return for another Sunday.
I do however feel that Dominick's has it's place here in the city of Angels. It's a beautiful setting, great lighting and ambiance, both inside and out on the patio. The wines are lovely as are the appetizers and snackables. It's a wonderful place for a meeting, a first date, a glass of wine, a small bite and some good conversation. And in the spirit of Hollywood, 9 times out of 10 you'll even get a Leonardo DiCapprio or another good celebrity sighting.
Dominick's
8715 Beverly Blvd
West Hollywood, CA 90048
(310) 652-2335
This was written late Summer, 2007...
A friend and I decided to explore Mozza last Wednesday night. We heard that - regardless of the LA, restaurant fanfare - it was relatively easy to roll in and sit at the mozzarella bar. That rumor is correct. We walked in at 8:30 and were guided to one of the tables by the bar while we waited. We ordered a bottle of the Bastianich rosé, which was elegant, crisp, with a light fruit. It seemed apropos as Joe Bastianich was in the house.We were told after 5 minutes that we could have a table if we wanted, but we opted to wait for our two seats at the bar - which only took a few moments more (the entirety of the menu is served at the mozzarella bar). It was a treat to watch Nancy Silverton hone her craft for the duration of our meal.
We perused the menu and decided to have the Crispy Pigs Trotter from the antipasti, the Scamorza Panino from the mozzarella bar, the Fresh Ricotta & Egg Raviolo AND the Orrechiette with Sausage & Swiss Chard from the Primi. We also ordered the side of Slow Cooked Broccoli. Much to our chagrin, our server insisted that we order everything at once. We intended to graze and savor. To take our time. However he would not put a single item in until we ordered completely. I am compelled to assume this is not actually the restaurant's policy but rather a server who wants to turn tables. He actually was our server at the pizzeria once and did the same maneuver... That aside, everyone and everything was sublime.
The pig's trotter was good, but generally uninteresting. The batter could have been lighter to allow the trotters to shine a bit more. The Panino was fantastic. Rich and rich with spice, with creamy, melty cheese. The Orriechette and the slow cooked broccoli came next. The broccoli was an extremely pleasant surprise, loaded with complex, smoky flavor. The orriechette was one of the dishes I had heard about before coming in and did not disappoint. The sausage and the chard provided wonderful textures and melded spice and bitterness, and the breadcrumb topped at the table created that wonderful bit of crunch that created a perfect accent. In my opinion the Raviolo was the standout of our selections. One, very large raviolo is centered on the plate, filled with the freshest, creamiest ricotta and a soft egg yolk. The entire dish is finished with browned butter. It could have used a small amount of coarse sea salt, but was otherwise heavenly.
We accompanied the latter part of the meal with a wonderful, Italian, white wine that cut through the rich, spicy, smoky, savoriness with perfection. For the life of me I cannot recall the name of that wine...
For dessert we had the Olive Oil Gelato and the Greek Yogurt Gelato and a suggested selection of cheeses. The olive oil gelato was subtle and mild, with a creamy texture that was like Summer in my mouth. I must say, that with the exception of the odd server who wanted us to order all at once, every person we encountered there were amazingly helpful, knowledgeable, kind and generous. We were given a selection of digestifs to sample at the end of our meal that were beautiful and delicious.
The prices did not offend me at all. It is not cheap, but for a long, winding meal that lasts hours upon hours, excellent, attentive service without rushing (I mean, they make you feel like they WANT you to stay all night.), wonderful, creative food and wine, it is well worth the cost (and really still won't break the bank. Hell, it's no Cut, price-wise.).
My friend and I agree. The experience on a whole was fantastic and I eagerly anticipate my return. I can't wait to try the Guinea Fowl and the Orata with a bottle of light, Italian red wine on a cool, Summer evening...
Osteria Mozza
6602 Melrose Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90038
(323) 297-0100
