1.04.2008

Dominick's


I have been to Dominick's a handful of times since they reopened under Warner Ebbink and Brandon Boudet (who also own the 101 Coffee Shop) in 2004. The original Dominick's restaurant and bar, established in 1948, was a favored watering hole for Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack. To keep the "old Hollywood" feel they kept the white tiled floors, dark wood accents, and red booths, while adding a marble bar (a full bar, at that), and a beautiful, brick garden patio with a large, working fireplace. Dominick's serves a moderately priced, light Italian fare with nightly specials and a Sunday supper ($15 for three courses).
 

I found the service to be erratic at best. They seem to have maintained that "Hollywood" feel (a.k.a., exclusivity) in so much that they like to make one wait for a table as long as possible even when it's obvious there are plenty open. I have never seen the place full. And more than once I had to all but beg for the bread (served warm, in a little bakery bag, and quite tasty). The service - when you can get it - is usually quite friendly however, and food comes out at a nice clip.
 

The food... I found the Rice Balls w/ Mushrooms & Mozzarella, Baked Ricotta w/ Roasted Sweet Peppers & Proscuitto perfectly palatable, if not mind blowing. The Fresh Mozzarella, Roasted Tomatoes, Grilled Mushrooms, and the Fresh Roasted Beets & Fried Goat Cheese were fresh, light, and just right. They have a lovely wine list with some real scores and reasonable prices in addition to their "signature" wine, Dago (Ebbink and Brandon blend their own wines with Palmina Winery), which is priced at an unbeatable $10 per bottle - offered in a red and a white.
 

The Sunday Supper I experienced was a major disappointment however. The three courses were puny, rushed, and had an entirely assembly line feel to them. I'd go as far as to say my entree, a pacific cod, may have been sitting under a heat lamp for quite some time before it found it's way to my table. Even for the $15 price tag, I would not return for another Sunday.
 

I do however feel that Dominick's has it's place here in the city of Angels. It's a beautiful setting, great lighting and ambiance, both inside and out on the patio. The wines are lovely as are the appetizers and snackables. It's a wonderful place for a meeting, a first date, a glass of wine, a small bite and some good conversation. And in the spirit of Hollywood, 9 times out of 10 you'll even get a Leonardo DiCapprio or another good celebrity sighting.

Dominick's

8715 Beverly Blvd
West Hollywood, CA 90048
(310) 652-2335

Dominick's

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